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The air leakage that Dana talked about would keep the roof dry, but would undermine its thermal performance.
When roof air flow can lessen the chance of ice damming, it’s important for builders to Restrict the flow of heat into roof air flow channels by which includes a number of ceiling air barriers and by setting up thick insulation, so that as little warmth as possible escapes within the household.
4. When you have R-twenty or R-twenty five of rigid foam on top of your sheathing, you could safely insulate underneath your sheathing with almost any sort of insulation you need to use to convey your insulation up to minimum code requirements.
Remember: just because your roof assembly is dry, doesn't mean it's well insulated. Your assembly could have massive air leaks that work as thermal bypasses. (Or not. It can be difficult to notify without a internet site go to.)
The longer that you wait around to set up rigid foam earlier mentioned your roof sheathing right after your rafter bays are filled with fluffy insulation, the increased the chance that your roof sheathing will accumulate moisture. 1 or 2 a long time should be no difficulty, but I wouldn't extend the exercise Significantly farther than that.
You don't describe irrespective of whether This is often new design or even the renovation of an existing constructing. I somewhat suspect This is a renovation -- or else a person may Believe that the designer of the building would even have delivered a structure for this content your roof.
Make sure you put in insulation that supplies at least the minimum code requirement for ceiling R-value. Insulation that exceeds the minimum code prerequisite is better yet.
I believe that you must post a sketch. I can not visualize what you're conversing about out of your description. If you would like set up an HRV as part of your attic, why do you have to set up a water-proof stucco roof above some sort of EPS box? Is just not your attic already dry? Most attics have roofs.
As for my Strength auditor recommending blowing cellulose into the mansard sides, You furthermore may recommend versus that? I had been beneath the impact blown cellulose prevents moisture migration.
I believe that Invoice Rose is right: most of these failures entail moisture that is carried by transferring air. They're not diffusion failures. In case the rafter bays definitely are correctly dense-packed -- a giant if -- the prospect of air movement is quite very low.
2. Whenever you install fiberglass batts, air barriers are far more important than vapor Management. You'll need a superior air barrier on both sides of one's fiberglass batts.
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Cellulose insulation can keep plenty of moisture. This "humidity buffering" potential is why not try these out cited by some cellulose followers as An important advantage, and without a doubt this skill can in some cases avoid a little moisture trouble that site from causing a great deal of rot.
You don't want to make use of insect monitor, mainly because fiberglass batts have to be enclosed by an air barrier on both sides. Once the major side of fiberglass batts are subject matter to wind-washing, the going air degrades the functionality of the insulation.